Article by Karen Burshtein.
There are the sights: coconut trees swaying in the breeze, fine sand beaches.
The sounds: splashing in the sea, the nasal honking of flamingos.
Then there are the scents. These scents are an essential part of a Caribbean stay: fragrant flowers like frangipani. But also the mesmerizing smell of so many spices. The Caribbean and spices are inseparable. They’re the backbone of many island economies. And spices flavour almost every signature dish.
So next time you’re on one of these islands why not explore the aromatic side with a spice tour (sampling included) or just reveling in delectable spice-infused meals.
GRENADA
From the moment you step foot off the plane, you can smell the aroma of the spices in Grenada…the scents of nutmeg and cinnamon are most prevalent.
Grenada is the “Spice Isle” of the Caribbean. After lunching on Oil Down, the country’s national dish (a flavourful one pot meal of meat, vegetables, fruits, coconut milk, herbs and spices), a spice tour is the most authentic and immersive culinary experiences you can have on the island.
Grenada has honed a reputation for sustainable and organic farming and many spice farms will explain their organic and sustainable farming practices as you discover fragrant farms harvesting nutmeg, and mace (both derived from the nutmeg tree), ginger, cinnamon or cloves.
I like a comprehensive tour that includes spice farms, a visit to a rum distillery and a chocolate factory, with a stop at historic Ford Frederick. If you just want to take home some spices, a must visit is the Grand Anse Spice and Craft Market.
GUYANA
Pepperpot, a traditional indigenous Guyanese dish with the distinct, mouth-watering smell of the spices intricately blended with your choice of beef, pork, lamb or even chicken
Guyana, sandwiched between Suriname and Venezuela, with a culture, including its culinary culture, that is very much connected to the Caribbean.
Guyanese cuisine is a vibrant fusion, shaped by the country’s Indigenous, African, Indian, Portuguese, Chinese, and European heritages. A commonality is a prevalence of spices and flavours. The best way to get to know Guyana’s spice culture is by trying the many dishes that use Jeera (cumin), turmeric, signature fiery wiri-wiri peppers and Green Seasoning (a blend of herbs with variations depending on the cook, that can include cilantro, culantro, parsley, celery, thyme, and chili peppers).
Try pepper pot at The Backyard Cafe in Georgetown. And don’t miss Duck Curry Saturdays at the great Bistro Cafe Bar.
ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES
A staple in Caribbean cooking, St. Vincent and The Grenadines creates their own unique spice blend for the ‘Vincy’ version of Green seasoning using the freshest of ingredients; photo courtesy of Uncommon Caribbean.
Saint Vincent and The Grenadines is another island with a really vibrant spice scene, and a long list of very spicy local dishes.
You’ll find any combination of cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, mace, chilis, coriander, anise, cardamom, fennel, ginger and vanilla in local dishes including fish blaff, or the national dish, roasted breadfruit and fried jackfish.
Green seasoning is also a very “Vincy” spice blend. There are some great immersive food tours on offer on the islands, including cooking classes and private chef experiences where you can witness the Vicentian’s wonderful innate ability to season dishes.
MARTINIQUE
Spices abound in Martinique. There are several local markets around the island but the main covered market in Fort-de-France is a must visit.
Martinique may grow wonderful tropical fruit but the island has also been gifted with the geography to cultivate the enticing spices that are inseparable from Creole cooking. When you combine them with the know-how of French cuisine, you get some unique and delicious dishes.
The island is full of farms harvesting vanilla, bois d’Inde, cinnamon, and nutmeg. After touring around, stop at Le Monde des Epices or the century-and-a-half-year-old spice market Le Grand Marché Couvert in Fort-de-France for souvenirs.
When relaxing by the pool, order a glass of rhum arrangé. Local spiced rum is the drink of choice here (and the trend is spreading globally). Make sure you also order some Accras de morue (cod fritters) with flavourful and spicy “chien sauce”. For dinner try the ever popular Colombo de Poulet (Colombo is a spice blend that is sort of the Creole equivalent of curry brought by Sri Lankan laborers and named for their capital). Another spice-led option you don’t want to miss: Octopus stew; served in many restaurants in Martinique.
TURKS AND CAICOS ISLANDS
Enjoy the freshness and spices of Conch Salad; photo courtesy of Simone’s Bar and Grill
Caribbean spices, ultra fresh seafood, and international influences. Expect to eat well in Turks and Caicos, starting with Conch Salad; The conch are tossed in lime juice, sweet peppers, tomato, red onion, fiery scotch bonnet peppers, pineapple and other ingredients including lots of island spices. It’s Turks and Caicos in a dish.
Take a five hour food tour. Or, go out on your own: visit the Providenciales Fish market, and benefit from the expertise of vendors who will tell you how to give your fish dish a kick. For a special occasion, splurge on a private chef who will come to your villa and whip up a memorable meal using island spices. You can and certainly should ask to tag along at his or her market run, too.
Article by Karen Burshtein. Karen Burshtein is an award-winning Toronto-based travel and culture writer with a love of history, saltwater and open water swimming.
She was born in Winnipeg, Canada and writes about all aspects of Canadian culture and history. She also travels the world where she likes to seek out the untold, the unconventional, and the quirky.
